It’s a windowless property in a cinder-block building, but venture inside and you’ll find a cozy dining room where a diverse mix of patrons slurp spicy soup and dig into plates of bulgogi or barbecued short ribs. Before you order, the server will bring you a pleasant selection of kim chee, other pickled vegetables, and tofu. Try the bibimbap: a sizzling heap of rice, beef, and vegetables served in a very hot clay bowl.