As our reviewer put it, “Sometimes you just want a decent steak.” Nick’s does steak—very well—and all of the things one would expect a steakhouse to do. There is big giant shrimp cocktail, flash-fried calamari (rolled in spicy blue cornmeal, as a twist), creamed spinach, and crème brûlée. The martinis are, of course, excellent—and imaginative. The wine list balances offerings under $30 with some over $100, with a nice selection in between. And it’s all housed in a friendly, cozy space right on the main drag.